Western Express Day #22 Carson City, NV to Kit Carson Campground (USFS), CA
Western Express Day #22
June 22 2021
Carson City, NV to Kit Carson Campground (USFS), CA - 49 Miles
Start 8:16AM, Finish 6:17PM
Ride Time: 6:15
Ascent: 4443'
Descent: 2214'
Tour Total Miles: 1449
I slept incredibly well last night on a pullout futon couch at Warm Showers hosts Joan and Greg’s cottage in Carson City. This morning marked the latest start that I had logged in quite some time. Greg joked that he worried I died in my sleep. Joan and Greg were both attorneys. Joan was originally from Pasadena and Greg from Camden, New Jersey. Joan had gotten this Carson City house a long time ago. They had lived and worked in Reno and eventually moved here. It was located in a beautiful historic neighborhood with large Cottonwood and Cedar trees. They had a beautiful backyard where their friendly energetic dog frolicked. In addition to me, they were also hosting another Warm Showers guest, who had left her dog and motor vehicle behind. The other guest was up in the mountains hiking. Joan and Greg offer a sweet little cottage to their guests. Last night they showed me pictures from when they had gone to Burning Man as well as their cycling trip in Myanmar. This morning I guzzled an energy drink that I found in the fridge, and then I packed up. Greg took my photo before I pedaled back through Carson City.
I took a right on US 50 and began the climb. I was on the Patrick Daly Memorial Highway. It would be a ten mile 2200’ ascent up to Lake Tahoe through the Carson range. US 50 here was a four-lane divided highway with Jersey barriers running down the center. It was like riding alongside a freeway. After some pedaling I passed a sign that read Elevation 5000’. As I wound my way up towards the pass I passed a snow tire and chain required when blinking sign. The landscape was filled with sage and darted with large Cedar trees. There were even more trees up on the range ahead. I entered the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest, and then passed a sign saying Elevation 5000’. It was 9:30 AM.
I started to feel a cool refreshing headwind. Three weeks ago today I had began this tour in Pueblo. It’s been an amazing odyssey, and in just a few days it will be over. I was now surrounded by cedar trees. There was road construction up ahead and one lane was closed. Workers were widening the cut and I had to quickly dart around the equipment. I crossed the Douglas County line, and it was now 10AM. I was passed by a westbound cyclist who startled me with his "Good morning!". I passed a sign saying Elevation 7000’. At 10:22AM I reached the 7146’ summit of Spooner Pass. I was now in the Lake Tahoe watershed. On the descent down to the lake level I lost my shoulder. It was a harrowing descent with the high-speed motor traffic whizzing by me.
I stopped at the Logan Shoals viewing area to see the immense beautiful lake and surrounding mountains. Lake Tahoe is the largest alpine lake in North America, and it trails only the five Great Lakes as largest US lakes by volume. It is the second deepest lake in the US after Crater Lake in Oregon. While riding around a small corner of the lake towards South Lake Tahoe, I passed beautiful homes. I entered the tunnel that Greg had warned me about. There was a button for cyclists to push to activate flashing lights that warned motorists.
I was getting hungry and stopped at Zepher Cove restaurant, which advertised breakfast all day long. It had chains on the doors and was closed. Now that I was nearing the coast I was concerned that there might be Covid restrictions that I’d have to deal with it. I stopped at the Lake Tahoe Oil Company Market and bought myself a Gatorade
I entered Stateline, population 142, and was reminded of the Florida - Alabama state line crossing on the Southern Tier. It was gross with large resort buildings. No thank you. The California border crossing sign was disappointing. Come on California! Step it up! 1400 miles to get here and this is what you offer?! I was hungry but didn’t want to support any of these businesses so I kept pedaling. I eventually came to Red Hut Café, where I sat outside at a wobbly table and ordered eggs over-easy, bacon, pancakes and orange juice.
After breakfast I continued down the road. There was plenty of traffic and congestion, and I just wanted to get away from it all. I crossed over the Upper Truckee river. US 50 finally cut south and away from the lake and all of the traffic and tourist congestion. I was once again on a two lane highway.
I got honked at by a white car. I was in the shoulder and all the way over to the right. There was a solid white line between the shoulder and the motor vehicle lane. Bicycle share the road signs where posted along the road. The guy was being a jerk and I flipped him off. I hope this doesn’t portend sucky California motorists. Up until this point the tour has been fantastic with respectful motorists.
There was a bike path at Meyers and I left the highway to ride on the asphalt. Meyers has a population of 3000 and an elevation of 6335’. I passed a California Agricultural Inspection Station and then said goodbye to US50. I continued south on State Highway 89. I began climbing up out of the Lake Tahoe basin, and it was a long slog. The side of the road was littered with large pine cones.
I pedaled for over an hour, and was passed from both directions by days cyclists out enjoying the day. I crossed over into Alpine County and had a nice downhill into a pleasant valley. I then crossed the west fork of the Carson River. I stopped and talked with Christie, a day cyclist from South Tahoe who had ridden the Trans Am last fall. She had pedaled west to east and was supported by her husband and kids in an RV. She definitely had the cycling bug!
I rode to Sorensons Cafe and sat out on the deck. I had missed lunch, but they were happy to bring me cold bottles of Sierra Nevada. At dinner time I ordered the Rib Eye steak and a garden salad. Afterwards I pedaled to the Kit Carson USFS campground and pitched my tent at site number one.
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