Western Express Day #6 Telluride, CO to Dolores, CO

Western Express Day #6

June 6, 2021

Telluride, CO - Dolores, CO - 69 Miles

Start 9:18AM, Finish 6PM

Ride Time: 5:38

Ascent: 2340'

Descent: 4170'

Tour Total Miles: 370

Details at: https://cyclemeter.com/3f1ef27914a4c684/Cycle-20210606-0733-44412

I slept well at the Cottonwood Corner site in the primitive campsite area of the Telluride City Park. There was a pleasant nearby roaring stream, and it didn’t get too cold. Last night in town I had sat out on Main street in a Mexican restaurant stall and enjoyed beer, a margarita, and chips and guacamole. Afterwards I went to the packed bar at the New Sheridan Hotel, where I enjoyed two more beers. Telluride is a beautiful old town. It’s located at the end of a valley with towering walls that immediately rise up with a huge waterfall up against the cliffs in the distance. The town boasts 350 miles of mining tunnels and has plenty of history. This morning as I was packing up my tent, I heard a loud propane torch blast, like what I would hear at my friend Uncle Taco's glass blowing shop. I immediately knew what it was, and saw a colorful hot air balloon lifting into the sky, right above my head. It was the Telluride Hot Air ballon Festival, and several other balloons were inflating in the park. I didn’t see any of the others get airborne, and later learned that it wasn’t windy enough. 

I rode into town and dried out my tent on a picnic table across the street from the town hall. I went to the New Sheridan Hotel for breakfast, and sat at the bar. I had Eggs Benedict, cappuccino, and an orange juice. There was an old Colorado state map in the lobby that showed all of the old railroad lines. I saw how far I had ridden from Pueblo and how close I was to Utah. With my ACA maps I never get a good sense of the overall geography. I went to the hotel bathroom and washed my face and couldn’t believe the ugly monster I saw before me in the mirror. My peeling, crispy, sunburned face was a mess. I left the hotel, saddled up, and rode out of town. It was bright and sunny but the air was cool. I was wearing my cycling shorts and short-sleeve jersey along with a sweater. I took the bike trail out of town, the way I’d come in.

I pedaled out to Highway 145 and the climbing began immediately. I got hot so I pulled over to remove my sweater and put on my UV covers. I smothered myself with sunscreen. The plastic buckle snaps on my front panniers were failing on both sides. They’d need to be replaced when I get back to Brooklyn. I reached Mountain Village ski resort and was still ten miles and 1000’ in elevation from the pass.

Two female cyclists, more or less my age, passed me on the climb. They were headed up to the pass and back. I’ve never done well on climbs. Speaking of doing well on the climbs, the TransAm race began this morning at 6 AM Pacific time. https://transambikerace.com I'd be following it closely. I wondered who would reach their corresponding coast first, Evan Deutsch or me?

I came around a bend with an amazing overlook and downhill with incredible views. Unfortunately I knew I’d have to make up that elevation. I flew down into a narrow valley and crossed a stream. I was surrounded by towering mountains that made me feel small and insignificant. It was a powerful experience and was incredibly beautiful. I still had another four miles to go and 1000’ elevation to climb.

The climbing continued and I was slowly getting there. At 600’ elevation before the summit I felt a tail breeze that cooled me down and lifted my spirits. I passed Trout Lake, which was surrounded by sweeping jagged snowcapped mountains. This was a truly incredible part of the world and I was blessed to be here. I passed a sign that said ‘Elevation 10,000’. I was only 222 feet from the summit. I had left my bottle of oxygen at John and Mallory‘s house and no longer needed it. I was now adjusted to the altitude. I passed a giant gate capable of shutting down the highway during a storm. I had passed the chain up area yesterday before Telluride.

I reached the 10,222’ summit and didn’t see my friends.  Right before I started downhill they appeared. They had gone over the pass and descended a couple miles before turning around and coming back up. Eileen promised me that the rest of my day would be easy, and that my work was behind me. it was 11:30 AM.

I went screaming down the other side of the pass and my top speed was 41 miles an hour. That said, I was passed by a day cyclist who gave me the thumbs up. My transmission was designed for carrying heavy loads up steep mountains and not for racing down hills. After a few miles the cyclist turned around and returned back up the pass.

The Dolores River was now to my left and I would be following it to my destination. It was about 40 feet wide and was a greenish brown color with foamy white rapids. Just after noon I entered Rico, population 265 and elevation 8812’ I went to the Fireweed and ordered a blueberry smoothie and a lemonade. A band was playing out on the back porch and it was an attractive young granola scene. I loved the vibe of this town.

After Rico the downhill continued. The rushing river was immediately to my right as I entered Montezuma county. I passed some guys picking up trash alongside the highway and I thanked them. Seriously- what kind of person would throw their trash out of a motor vehicle? It’s disgusting. These people who spend their free time picking up other people’s trash are saints.

A white van with a number of bikes strapped to the back slowed down and waved. I’ve been passed by hundreds of motor vehicles carrying bicycles. Colorado is a cycling meca. Most of the bikes I saw were mountain bikes. Eileen had told me this morning about Ride The Rockies. The route started in Durango and went through this part of the state. https://www.bicyclecolorado.org/featured-event/ride-the-rockies/ 

I crossed back over the Dolores River and it was now on my left. I found myself in the bottom of a deep valley with evergreen and aspen trees and craggy red rock faces. I entered Priest Gulch, and was met with a strong headwind blowing through the valley, which was affecting what was supposed to be an effortless downhill. Coming into Stoner the road was flanked on the right by beautiful smooth red rock with gray and black striations. It was strikingly beautiful. The other side of the valley was green with fir and Aspen trees.

Stoner ended up being just one building with an impressive back porch. I had promised myself a break but sitting on the porch would have felt conspicuous had I stopped. I passed some folks rafting in the river to the left. I crossed over the West Dolores River which added quite a bit of flow to the Dolores at the confluence. I was now thirteen miles from my destination. Tonight I’d be staying with Warm Showers hosts Dave and Belinda. The ACA Western Express map section changed in Dolores, and I’d be switching to Map section three before I got to their house.

I passed a series of large square ponds created in the valley besides the river. Folks were spending the sunny afternoon there fishing. A few more miles down the road, the highway was once again traveling alongside the river, and I saw more people rafting. The valley walls were diminishing and buildings were springing up as I got closer to Dolores. It had been a long day and it was definitely beer o’clock. I reached the Dolores city limits, elevation 6936’ and population 936.

Dolores River Brewery didn’t open until 4PM which was an hour away, so I stopped at Montezuma Mexican restaurant which had a deck overlooking the river. I drank a few bottles of Dos Equis while munching on chips. At 4PM I cycled over to the brewery where I ordered a Young American Pils. I edited this report while enjoying the beer and Cuban music

Dave and Belinda were cooking me a special dinner so I guzzled down my second pint and sped down the road, crossing the Dolores River one more time. It was windy as I climbed a hill up out of town. The reservoir had low water levels. When I reached the top of the climb there was little on the horizon, but flat plains. A few scattered silhouetted mountain ranges appeared in the distance like islands. The terrain was so different from where I had just come, and it was odd. A big black dog give me a friendly chase and I didn’t need to pull out my pepper spray. I told him to go away like a good dog

I showed up at Dave and Belinda’s beautiful home, and was able to shower and wash my dirty clothes. Belinda made a fantastic chicken dinner and a wonderful salad. They had toured the Western Express - TransAm as well as many tours in Europe. Their blog can be found here: http://daveandbelindasbigbikeride.blogspot.com/  We stayed up late sharing travel stories, and they were able to give me sage advice for my tour going forward.

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