Western Express Day #7 Dolores, CO to Monticello, UT
Western Express Day #7
June 7, 2021
Dolores, CO to Monticello, UT - 62 Miles
Start 8:43AM, Finish 6:06PM
Ride Time: 6:02
Ascent: 2013'
Descent: 1934'
Tour Total Miles: 431
I slept incredibly well last night in a cozy bed at Warm Showers hosts Dave and Belinda’s in Dolores. I showered, shaved, did laundry, and recharged all my devices. I was well rested and solidly back at level one. For breakfast Belinda made fantastic scrambled eggs, along with toast, cut fruit, granola, yogurt, and coffee. Over breakfast I learned more about my hosts. Dave grew up in Monterey California, right on the coast, and has always been interested in boats, surfing, and diving. Belinda grew up in New Mexico, not far from this area. They were both agricultural research scientists specializing in pepper genetics. They offered me a fantastic pepper marmalade for my toast this morning. Dave showed me his shop where he was building a canoe. Lest I forget Riley their Jack Russell Terrier who would shortly be taking his first bike tour with them. Dave confirmed what I had suspected about the McPhee Reservoir. It was at unprecedented low levels and this area was experiencing extreme drought conditions. He mentioned that they wouldn’t be able to grow their vegetable garden this year because of the drought. Dave shared with me that he had spied a mountain lion on his property with his critter cam. He made me promise that when I got to Utah I would try the Polygamy beer. Apparently you can’t just have just one.
I was out on the road before 9 AM. I was wearing my short-sleeve jersey and bike shorts, and was headed west on State Highway 184. I passed Canyons of the Ancients, a twelfth century Dominguez and Escalante Anasazi ruins, which was unfortunately closed. I crossed over the Narraguinnep Canal, which led from the reservoir. A week ago I was snowshoeing my way up Flattop Mountain. My skin was still peeling and I was still applying aloe vera.
I came to the town of Lewis, population 302 and elevation 6647’, and I took a right on US 491. I was surrounded by a wide open expanse with distant mountain ranges, which appeared like islands in a vast sea. I passed grazing pastures and scrub. The next town was Pleasant, no population listed. I rode by grain silos, cattle, horses, and radiating irrigation systems. The grocery store was open and I didn’t stop. I also noticed a post office and an auto detailing shop. I disturbed a group of giant brown crows that were clustered together in a field. They took off in flight as I approached, and spread their wings to glide in circles above me.
I crossed the Dolores County line. It was 10:30AM and I was making good time. The side of the road was populated with prairie dogs darting in and out of their tunnels. The earth here was red. I passed over Cahone Creek and entered the small town of Cahone, no population listed. There were no services, and I stopped to flip my map panel and put on my UV covers.
Coming into Dove Creek I passed a small airfield. It was literally a field with an air sock and a small single engine plane. There was a large concrete grain elevator in the distance and a mountain range miles beyond that. Dove Creek had a population of 735 and an elevation of 6843’. It was windy and my brim was bouncing around on my head. I passed a car wash, a hardware store, an auto supply store, a fitness studio, a used car lot, a post office, a VFW, a liquor store, a coffee shop, two gas stations, a chain hotel and a Family Dollar.
The scenery on today’s ride was the least impressive I’d experienced yet on this tour, and it reminded me of central Montana. One benefit of not being surrounded by snowcapped mountains or deep within rocky canyons was that I had fantastic cell phone service the entire day. I reached the Utah border and was disappointed that the State Line Bar and Grill was closed. Google maps had indicated that it would be open. The strong wind was becoming irritating, and I was starving and desiring a beer. What a drag!
I documented the border crossing, and a mile down the road I ran into eastbound cyclist Melissa, whom I had been in touch with and was anticipating meeting today. She was riding from San Francisco to Pueblo and then taking the Trans Am to Virginia. From there she’d ride north to New Jersey. She was riding about 40 miles a day and was planning to stay with John and Mallory in Ridgway. She told me that she didn’t like camping. This was her first cross-country tour and she wasn’t as passionate about it as I was. She had a long way to go. I promised her that she’d be sad when it was all over. Melissa was blogging at: https://chroniclesofamelissa.wordpress.com
About a mile down the road I ran into east-bounder Lucas who was traveling with three other guys who were behind him. The wind was driving him crazy as well. He told me that they were all headed to Dolores for the night. After a few more miles I ran into Campbell, Josh, and Neal. Josh had just had a flat, which had delayed them. Earlier in the tour his gearshift lever had broke and he had to replace it. While we were there talking on the side of the highway, a motorist pulled up and asked if we needed assistance or water. Campbell remarked that my enthusiasm for touring was infectious. Neal’s front tire was shot and down to the threads. He was hoping to make it to Telluride to purchase a replacement. Lucas, Josh, and Neal were from the Carolinas and Campbell was from South Philly. They were all med students at Wake Forest School of Medicine in Winston, Salem, NC. They were doing a Go Fund me, Wheels for Winston: Cycling for WS Non-profits. I sent them $100 and hope that my readers will contribute as well. https://www.gofundme.com/f/cycle-across-america-ws-nonprofit-fundraiser Follow these great guys on Instagram @wheelsforWinston
The brutal wind was out of the south and I was headed west. It was giving me a slight boost into my left hip and shoulder, and was also annoying. It was blowing me off the shoulder into the gravel and bouncing my brim around. I could see Monticello from about seven miles out. There was a wind farm to the north and 11,123’ South Peak mountain directly to the west, behind the town. My toes were cramping up and the wind was driving me crazy. I was going only four miles an hour. The wind was so strong that it prevented me from dictating into my phone. Finally the Monticello welcome sign appeared. ‘Monticello - The land above the canyons’.
I got to town and it was definitely beer o’clock. The Granary Bar & Grill looked promising, but they were only offering takeout and delivery orders today because of a staff shortage. I needed a place to sit down. Dougs BBQ was also closed, despite what Google had indicated. The High Desert Cafe was closing, so I went to Shake Shack - the Utah version. I ordered a cheeseburger and fries and two large Cokes. I sat outside in my bare feet, and began working on this report. The next two days were going to be tricky. There was a 124 mile stretch through the desert with no services. I checked in with my friend Andy from the TransAm. Andy had been through here in 2018 and was familiar with the terrain. The cyclists I had met earlier had additionally given me the email address of a store owner in Hite, in the middle of the No-Services area. It was going to be difficult, but beautiful.
I met Zachary a self-proclaimed preacher from Arizona, who was living a nomadic lifestyle out of a van. He was smart and articulate, and we had a lot of views in common. I then headed over to the Old West RV Park, where I met the proprietor, Jim Brandt. Jim was an exhibition shooter, whose skills can be seen on YouTube: Mundenhttps://youtu.be/2_hdNk9drLY I set up my camp and then enjoyed a shooting exhibition that Jim performed for the RV park guests.
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